Posted bare-rooted on Mondays · Australia-wide except WA, TAS and NT · Get release alerts
Key points
- Clivias flower best when slightly root-bound, so go up only a little in pot size.
- Use a coarse, bark-based mix that drains quickly, never garden soil or garden compost.
- Repot every few years, after flowering, when the roots fill the pot.
- Separate offsets once they have their own roots and at least 3 or 4 leaves; bigger offsets (8 to 10 leaves) settle faster and flower sooner.
- Pot a bare-rooted Valewood plant soon after it arrives, and keep the roots damp until you do.
Choosing a pot
Clivias flower best when their roots are a little crowded, and a pot that’s too big stays wet and can delay flowering. When moving up, choose a pot no more than about 5 cm wider than the old one.
Plastic pots hold moisture longer, while terracotta dries out faster, which helps in wet climates but means more watering in summer. Deep pots suit the long, thick roots better than shallow ones. Whatever you choose, it needs good drainage holes. Experienced growers advise against a layer of crocks or gravel in the bottom; a coarse mix does the job.
Potting mix recipes
Clivias need a mix that drains fast, holds plenty of air and has some organic matter. Water should run straight through when you water. Most growers build their mix on composted pine bark. In general terms, any of these work:
- Simple: about three parts coarse orchid or bark mix to one part premium potting mix.
- Bark and grit: composted pine bark with some coarse sand or fine gravel added for weight and drainage.
- Bagged mix, opened up: a premium potting mix with a generous amount of coarse bark mixed through.
Avoid garden soil and garden compost in pots, as both hold too much water. A slightly acidic mix suits clivias. Bark-based mixes contain few nutrients, so plan to feed with a slow-release fertiliser with trace elements.
How your plant travels
Every plant is cleaned, posted bare-rooted and wrapped in damp material to keep it humid in transit. We pack it in a new box and post it on a Monday by Australia Post.
When to repot
Clivias dislike being disturbed, so repot only when needed, usually every 3 to 5 years. Signs it’s time:
- roots are circling tightly, pushing the plant up or growing out of the drainage holes
- water runs straight through without wetting the mix
- the mix has broken down into a fine, soggy sludge
- offsets have filled the pot
Repot after flowering in spring, or in early autumn when the heat has passed. Avoid the winter rest and hot spells. A freshly repotted plant may skip a flowering season while it settles.
How to repot
- Pick a mild morning, and wear gloves, as the sap can irritate skin.
- Ease the plant out of its pot. If it’s stuck, run a knife around the inside, or cut a plastic pot away.
- Shake or gently wash off the old mix so you can see the roots.
- Check the roots. Healthy roots are firm. Cut off any that are soft, brown or hollow with clean secateurs, wiping the blades with methylated spirits between cuts. White, cottony patches are a sign of root mealybug (see pests and problems).
- Put some fresh mix in the new pot and set the plant at the same depth as before, with the base of the leaves just above the surface. Fill around the roots and firm gently.
- Water it in, let it drain freely, and put the pot in bright shade with good airflow.
Don't overpot
A big pot full of wet mix is the fastest way to lose a clivia to rot, and it can stop flowering too. Go up only a little at a time.
Dividing offsets: when they're ready
Mature clivias produce offsets, often called pups, around the base. Dividing is the only way to get a plant that is exactly the same as its parent. Seedlings don’t always look like the plant they came from: a yellow clivia won’t necessarily give yellow seedlings.
An offset is ready to separate when it has its own roots and at least 3 or 4 leaves. Bigger offsets (8 to 10 leaves) settle faster and flower sooner. Smaller offsets establish more slowly, so if in doubt, leave it another season. Divided plants usually take a couple of years to flower on their own.
How to divide
- Divide after flowering, in spring or early autumn.
- Lift or unpot the clump and remove enough mix to see where the offset joins the parent.
- Gently pull the offset away, or cut it free with a clean, sharp knife, keeping as many of its roots as you can.
- For a big garden clump, push two garden forks in back to back and lever them apart, rather than pulling upwards.
- Trim any damaged roots and let the cut surfaces dry in the shade for a few hours to a day.
- Pot each piece into a pot that just fits its roots, using fresh, free-draining mix.
Aftercare
Keep new divisions and repotted plants in bright shade with good airflow, out of wind and frost. Water sparingly until you see new growth, and don’t let the mix stay wet. Hold off on fertiliser until the plant is growing again. Expect a season or two before divisions flower.
Label as you go
When you divide or repot, label each pot with the plant’s name or cross straight away. Out of flower, clivias look very alike.
Seedlings: don't rush them
Clivia seedlings are happiest left together in their first pot. At Valewood we never pot seedlings on before they are 18 months old: moving them earlier can lose half of them or more, and planting out 1-year-old seedlings can result in high losses. Never let a seedling dry out. For sowing and early care, see seed raising.
When your Valewood plant arrives bare-rooted
We post plants bare-rooted. The roots are cleaned and wrapped in damp material to keep them moist in transit, and the plant is packed in a new box and sent by Australia Post. Here’s what to do when it arrives:
- Unpack it straight away and check that the roots are still damp.
- Pot or plant it soon. If you can’t do it straight away, it will be fine for a short period if you keep the roots damp and leave it in a cool, shaded spot.
- Choose a pot that just fits the roots, with good drainage, and a coarse, well-drained mix as described above.
- Trim only what’s damaged. Snip off any broken or soft roots with clean secateurs and leave healthy roots alone.
- Plant at the right depth, with the base of the leaves just above the mix, and firm gently.
- Water it in on a mild morning, not in the evening and not on a day over 30°C, then let it drain.
- Give it bright shade and airflow. Stand the pot off the ground, protect it from frost, and never overwater while it settles.
Planting in the garden instead? Choose a well-drained, shaded bed (see Clivias 101). For postage details, see shipping and returns.
Arrival day checklist
Tick each step as you go.
Common questions
Do clivias like being root-bound?
Up to a point. Slightly crowded roots encourage flowering, which is why small steps up in pot size work best. Repot when the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot or the mix has broken down.
Will an offset flower the same colour as its parent?
Yes. An offset is part of the same plant, so its flowers will match the parent. Seedlings are different: their colour depends on both parents and isn’t guaranteed.
Can I divide a clivia in winter?
It’s best not to. Plants are resting and roots are slow to recover, and in cold areas a disturbed plant is more exposed to frost and rot. Wait until after flowering in spring, or early autumn.
Sources and further reading (13)
- Melbourne Clivia Group: Cultivation of Clivias, Clivia Pests and Diseases (cultivation notes PDF)
- Royal Horticultural Society: How to grow clivias
- University of Wisconsin Extension: Clivia
- White Flower Farm: Growing Clivia miniata
- Pacific Horticulture: Cultivating Clivia
- Garden Clinic: How to cultivate clivias
- Garden Clinic: Dividing clivias
- Garden Clinic: Clivia
- SANBI PlantZAfrica: Clivia miniata
- SANBI PlantZAfrica: Clivia mirabilis
- Burke's Backyard: Clivia in Deep Shade
- WA Department of Primary Industries and Regional Development: Mealybugs (nursery factsheet PDF)
- Melbourne Clivia Group: Propagating Clivia seeds in Australia
Grow guide
Keep learning
Start here: light, water, potting mix and when they flower.
Month-by-month jobs for a frost-prone garden.
The usual reasons, with a quick flowering check.
Group 1 and 2 yellows, cross names and hand pollinating.
From ripe berry to first leaf, the Valewood way.
Mealybug, lily caterpillar, rots and leaf marks.
Quick answers to the questions we hear most.
Umbels, tepals, splits and selfs explained.
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